Licorice seeds

Grow the Real Deal — Sweet, Aromatic Licorice Root Right in Your Garden with Licorice Seeds

Here's something that blows people's minds — most "licorice flavored" stuff you've eaten your whole life doesn't actually contain any real licorice. Those black jelly beans? Anise oil. That licorice rope candy? Mostly corn syrup and artificial flavoring. Actual licorice — the kind that comes from the root of the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant — is something most Americans have never tasted in its real form. And the first time you dig up a homegrown licorice root, peel back the bark, and chew on that sweet, complex, woody-herbal flesh? You realize everything you thought you knew about licorice was wrong. Real licorice root is naturally sweet — like, fifty times sweeter than sugar sweet — with this deep, warm, earthy complexity that no artificial flavoring can touch. It's been one of the most prized plants on Earth for over four thousand years. Ancient Egyptians were into it. The Chinese have cultivated it for millennia. And you can grow it in your backyard.

At SeedOrganica, we carry fresh, quality-tested licorice seeds for home gardeners who want to grow this legendary plant themselves. Licorice is a hardy perennial legume — same family as peas and beans — that produces attractive feathery foliage, pretty purple-blue flowers, and a spreading root system that's the real prize. It's tougher than most people expect, growing happily in zones 6 through 10 and even handling zone 5 with some winter protection. Whether you want to harvest your own licorice root for teas and cooking, grow a fascinating conversation-piece herb, or just add a beautiful, unusual legume to your perennial garden, licorice seeds for planting connect you to one of the oldest cultivated plants in human history. That's a pretty cool thing to have growing next to your tomatoes.

Explore Our Licorice Seed Varieties

When people say "licorice," they're usually thinking of one plant — but there are actually several species in the Glycyrrhiza genus, plus some unrelated plants that share the name because of their similar flavor profile. Our collection covers the main types so you can pick the licorice plant that fits your growing conditions, your climate, and what you want to use it for.

Glycyrrhiza glabra (True Licorice / Sweet Root) is the original — the species that's been cultivated commercially for thousands of years and the source of genuine licorice root extract used in candies, teas, and traditional preparations worldwide. It's a herbaceous perennial legume that grows about three to five feet tall with elegant, pinnately compound leaves (think of little leaflets arranged along a central stem like a fern) and spikes of small, lavender-blue to purple flowers in summer. The flowers are pretty — subtle but attractive in a wildflowery way — and they're followed by small seed pods typical of legume plants. But the real action is underground. Licorice develops an extensive root system with thick, woody main roots and spreading horizontal runners called stolons. These roots are what contain glycyrrhizin — the compound responsible for that intense, characteristic sweetness. The roots take about three to four years to reach harvestable maturity, but the wait is worth it. A well-established licorice plant produces an impressive amount of sweet, aromatic root material over its lifetime. Glycyrrhiza glabra is native to southern Europe and western Asia, and it does best in warm, dry climates with long, hot summers. Hardy in zones 7 through 10, sometimes zone 6 with protection.

Glycyrrhiza glabra var. typica (Spanish Licorice) is considered the standard cultivated variety of true licorice and the type most commonly grown for commercial root production. Spanish licorice has been the backbone of the European licorice industry for centuries — Spain, Italy, and Greece have all been major producers. The roots of the typica variety are generally considered to have the strongest, most balanced sweetness and the richest aromatic complexity of any licorice variety. If you want the "real" licorice experience — the flavor that's been prized since antiquity — this is the one. Growth habit is similar to the straight species: three to five feet tall, feathery foliage, blue-purple flowers, deep root system. It's the variety most gardeners reach for when they specifically want to grow licorice for root harvest.

Glycyrrhiza glabra var. glandulifera (Russian Licorice) is a hardier variety from central Asia and southern Russia that can handle colder winters than the standard Mediterranean type. If you're gardening in zone 5 or 6 and worried about whether licorice will survive your winters, Russian licorice is the one to try. It's been naturally selected by harsh continental climates for centuries — cold winters, hot summers, dry conditions. The root sweetness is comparable to the Spanish type, though some growers describe a slightly earthier, more robust flavor profile. The plant itself is similar in appearance — pinnate leaves, blue-purple flowers — but tends to be a touch more compact and dense in habit. For northern gardeners who want to push the licorice-growing zone boundary, glandulifera is your best bet.

Glycyrrhiza uralensis (Chinese Licorice / Gan Cao) is the East Asian species that's been a cornerstone of traditional Chinese herbalism for thousands of years. "Gan Cao" translates roughly to "sweet herb" — pretty straightforward naming for a plant that's been this important for this long. Chinese licorice is very closely related to true licorice but adapted to the continental climate of northern China, Mongolia, and Siberia. It's notably more cold-hardy than Glycyrrhiza glabra — reliable in zones 4 through 9, making it accessible to a much wider range of American gardeners. The root chemistry is similar but not identical to true licorice — it contains glycyrrhizin plus additional compounds that give it a slightly different flavor nuance. Some people describe Chinese licorice root as slightly less sweet but more complex than the Mediterranean species. The plant is also slightly more compact, typically reaching two to four feet tall, with similar feathery foliage and blue-purple flower spikes. For gardeners in cold-winter zones who want to grow licorice, Glycyrrhiza uralensis is the most reliable option. It's winter-tough in ways that the Mediterranean species simply aren't.

Glycyrrhiza lepidota (American Licorice / Wild Licorice) is the native North American species that most gardeners don't even know exists. American licorice grows wild across the prairies, grasslands, and riverbanks of the central and western United States — from the Great Plains to the Pacific Northwest. It's a tough, adapted-to-America perennial that handles zones 3 through 8 without any fuss whatsoever. The root is sweet — less intensely so than true licorice, but still distinctly licorice-flavored and historically used by Native American peoples for culinary and traditional purposes. The plant grows two to three feet tall with the same attractive pinnate leaves and produces greenish-white flower spikes that develop into bur-like seed pods covered in tiny hooked bristles (mildly annoying to touch but kind of cool-looking). American licorice is an outstanding choice for native plant gardens, prairie restorations, and pollinator habitats. It's a nitrogen-fixing legume, so it actually improves soil fertility wherever it grows. And because it's native, it supports local ecosystems in ways that the imported species can't. If you want licorice flavor from a plant that belongs here — a plant that grew on this continent long before anyone brought over the European version — Glycyrrhiza lepidota is your plant.

Helichrysum petiolare (Licorice Plant — ornamental) is technically not a true licorice at all — it's a South African ornamental in the daisy family — but it's included here because gardeners frequently search for "licorice plant seeds" and find this one. The common name comes from its licorice-scented silvery-gray foliage, not from any root-related sweetness. It's a beautiful trailing plant with soft, felted, silver leaves that's commonly used in container plantings, hanging baskets, and as a ground cover in warm-climate gardens. It's purely ornamental and aromatic — no edible root involved — but it's gorgeous and the licorice-adjacent scent is genuinely pleasant. If you're after the real, root-harvesting licorice experience, go with one of the Glycyrrhiza species above. If you just want a pretty, fragrant, silver-leaved trailing plant for your containers, helichrysum is a lovely addition to the mix.

Growing a couple of different Glycyrrhiza species is actually a really smart strategy. The Chinese species for cold-climate reliability, the Spanish type for peak root sweetness, and the native American species for ecological value and no-fuss toughness. Three different plants, three different strengths, and a licorice root supply that's way more diverse and interesting than anything you'd buy in a store. That's the kind of herb collection that makes people take notice.

Gardening Insights for Growing Licorice from Seed

Let's get something out of the way — growing licorice from seed requires patience. The seeds can be finicky about germinating, the seedlings grow slowly at first, and the roots don't reach harvestable maturity for several years. This is not a crop for people who want instant gratification. But if you enjoy the process of nurturing a long-lived perennial, watching it establish and expand over seasons, and eventually harvesting something that literally thousands of years of human civilization have prized? Licorice growing is deeply, deeply rewarding. Here's everything you need to know.

Sunlight: Full sun to partial shade. Licorice grows best with at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. In its native habitat — the Mediterranean, central Asia, the American prairie — it grows in open, sun-drenched environments. Full sun produces the most vigorous plants with the strongest root development, which is what you're after since the root is the prize. In hot-summer climates (zones 8 through 10), some afternoon shade is tolerated and can actually reduce heat stress during the most brutal months. In cooler zones (5 through 7), plant in the sunniest, warmest microclimate you can find — a south-facing bed against a wall or fence that traps heat is ideal. Licorice likes warmth. The hotter and longer your summer, the happier it is and the better the roots develop.

Soil: Deep, well-draining soil is essential. Licorice develops a deep taproot plus spreading horizontal stolons, and it needs soil that allows those roots to penetrate easily without hitting compacted layers or waterlogged zones. Sandy loam is the classic licorice-growing soil — loose enough for deep root penetration, drains well, and warms up quickly in spring. Heavy clay is the worst option because it compacts around roots, holds too much moisture, and makes harvest difficult (try pulling a three-foot root out of hardpan clay — it's not fun). If your soil is heavy, consider deep raised beds — at least eighteen to twenty-four inches deep — filled with a loose, sandy-loam mix. The deeper you can make the growing bed, the better your roots will develop. pH should be neutral to slightly alkaline — around 6.5 to 8.0. Licorice actually tolerates slightly alkaline soil better than most garden plants, which makes sense given its native limestone hillside and prairie habitats.

As a legume, licorice fixes nitrogen through symbiotic bacteria in root nodules. This means it essentially fertilizes itself — and the surrounding soil — by converting atmospheric nitrogen into plant-available nutrients. Don't over-fertilize, especially with nitrogen. The plant makes its own. Rich, heavily composted soil can actually produce lush top growth at the expense of root development. Think lean. Think prairie. Average soil with good drainage and depth is the goal.

Starting from seed — scarification is key: Licorice seeds have a hard outer coat that prevents water from penetrating and triggering germination. Without scarification, your seeds may sit in the soil for months doing absolutely nothing. You need to physically break or weaken that seed coat before planting. Here's how:

Method 1 — mechanical scarification: Gently nick or scuff the seed coat with a small file, fine sandpaper, or nail clippers. Don't go too deep — you just want to break through the outer shell enough to let water in. One small nick per seed is sufficient. This is the most reliable method.

Method 2 — hot water soak: Place seeds in a bowl and pour near-boiling water over them (not quite boiling — about 170 to 180°F). Let them soak for twenty-four hours. Seeds that have absorbed water will swell noticeably. Any seeds that haven't swollen can be re-nicked and soaked again.

After scarification and soaking, sow seeds about a quarter to half inch deep in moist, well-draining seed-starting mix. Keep the soil warm — 65 to 75°F — and consistently moist but not waterlogged. Germination usually takes one to three weeks after proper scarification, though some seeds are slower. Without scarification, germination can take months or not happen at all. Don't skip this step. It's the single most important thing you can do to succeed with licorice seeds.

Grow seedlings under strong light — a grow light or very bright windowsill — and pot up into deeper containers as they develop. Licorice seedlings grow a taproot early, so a deeper pot (at least six to eight inches) is better than a shallow tray. Transplant outdoors after your last frost date when seedlings have several sets of true leaves and nighttime temperatures are above 50°F.

Spacing and planting: Space licorice plants about eighteen to twenty-four inches apart. Keep in mind that established plants spread through underground stolons, so a single plant will gradually form a colony over time. This is generally a good thing — it means your licorice patch gets bigger and more productive each year — but if you want to contain it, planting within a raised bed or sunken barrier (similar to what you'd use for mint) keeps the stolons in check.

Watering: Moderate watering during the first couple of growing seasons while the root system establishes. Once established — usually by year two or three — licorice is reasonably drought-tolerant, especially the American and Chinese species. Water deeply but infrequently, allowing the soil to dry between waterings. Consistent deep watering during the main growing season (spring and summer) encourages deeper root penetration, which is exactly what you want for root harvest. Reduce watering in fall as the plant prepares for dormancy. In winter, dormant licorice plants need very little water — the underground roots and stolons are perfectly happy in dry soil. Overwatering during dormancy is one of the few things that can kill an established licorice plant. When in doubt, err on the side of dry.

Harvesting roots: This is the big payoff — and it takes a while. Licorice roots are typically harvested after three to four years of growth, when the root system has had time to develop substantial woody taproots and thick stolons with high concentrations of sweetness. Earlier harvest is possible but the roots will be thinner, less sweet, and less aromatic. Patience genuinely pays off with licorice.

Harvest in fall after the top growth has died back. Dig carefully around the base of the plant with a garden fork, loosening the soil deeply — those roots go down. Lift what you can and cut the roots you want. Leave some roots and stolons in the ground so the plant can regenerate — a well-established licorice patch is a renewable resource. Wash harvested roots, let them dry in a warm, well-ventilated area for several weeks until they're fully dried, and store in airtight containers. Dried licorice root keeps for a very long time — years, in proper storage.

Fresh or dried roots can be chewed directly (an ancient practice that's been happening since literally before recorded history), brewed into tea by steeping slices in boiling water, ground into powder for baking and flavoring, or infused into syrups for drinks and desserts. A cup of tea brewed from your own homegrown licorice root is one of those garden-to-cup experiences that connects you to thousands of years of human plant cultivation. It's a pretty profound little moment, honestly.

Winter care: In zones 7 through 10, licorice overwinters in the ground without any special attention — the top growth dies back, the roots go dormant, and everything resprouts in spring. In zones 5 and 6, mulch the crown heavily with six to eight inches of straw, leaves, or wood chips in late fall to insulate the roots from freeze-thaw cycles. Chinese licorice (Glycyrrhiza uralensis) and American licorice (Glycyrrhiza lepidota) are the most cold-hardy species for these borderline zones. In zones 3 and 4, stick with the American species — it's the only Glycyrrhiza that reliably handles those extreme winters.

Frequently Asked Questions