Jicama seeds
Growing the Best Jicama Seeds
- High germination rate for reliable, productive growth.
- Easy-to-grow seeds, ideal for beginners and experienced gardeners.
- Handpicked and tested for quality in the USA.
Regular price
From $16.99 USD
Sale price
From $16.99 USD
Regular price
Regular price
From $16.99 USD
Sale price
From $16.99 USD
Regular price
Grow Your Own Crispy, Refreshing Snack with Our Jicama Seeds
If you've ever bitten into a perfectly chilled slice of fresh jicama — that satisfying crunch, the mild sweetness, the juiciness that's somewhere between an apple and a water chestnut — you already know why this root vegetable has such a devoted following. Now imagine pulling one out of your own garden soil. Yeah, it's that kind of satisfying. Jicama doesn't get nearly enough attention from home gardeners in the US, which is honestly a shame because it's wildly fun to grow and absolutely delicious. That crispy white flesh you find at the grocery store or farmers market? It's ten times better when it's homegrown. At SeedOrganica, we carry fresh, quality-tested jicama seeds specifically for backyard growers, kitchen gardeners, and anyone who's curious enough to try something a little different this season. No bulk farm quantities — just good seeds for real home gardeners who like growing cool stuff.
Explore Our Jicama Seed Varieties
Most folks think of jicama as just "jicama" — one plant, one option. But there's actually a bit more to the story than that. The jicama family has some variation, and the growing experience is more interesting than you might expect.
Our main offering is Jicama (Pachyrhizus erosus), sometimes called Mexican yam bean or Mexican turnip. This is the classic — the one you've seen at the grocery store, the one that shows up in street food stalls drizzled with lime juice and dusted with chili powder. The plant itself is actually a climbing vine, which surprises a lot of first-time growers. Above ground, it produces these pretty lavender-blue or white flowers on twining vines that can reach 10 to 15 feet. Below ground is where the magic happens — that big, round, papery-skinned tuber packed with crisp, juicy, mildly sweet white flesh. One healthy plant can produce a tuber anywhere from the size of a softball to bigger than a cantaloupe, depending on how long your growing season is and how happy you keep it.
Here's a little grower's tip that makes a real difference: when the vine starts flowering, pinch off the blooms. We know, it feels wrong — the flowers are pretty and you spent all that time growing them. But removing the flowers tells the plant to redirect all its energy down into the root, which means a bigger, better tuber at harvest time. It's kind of like pruning tomato suckers. You sacrifice a little on top to get a lot more on the bottom. Trust the process.
Now, one really important thing we gotta mention — and this isn't something to gloss over — only the root of the jicama plant is edible. The leaves, stems, flowers, seedpods, and mature seeds all contain compounds that are not safe to eat. This is super well-documented and it's critical to know, especially if you have kids or pets around the garden. The root itself is perfectly fine and delicious, but everything above ground should be treated as ornamental only. Don't let this scare you off from growing it though — plenty of common garden plants have inedible parts (rhubarb leaves, tomato stems, potato foliage). You just need to know the deal going in, and now you do.
What makes homegrown jicama special compared to store-bought? Freshness, mostly. The jicama you find at the supermarket has usually been shipped a long way and stored for who knows how long. It's still decent, but a freshly dug jicama from your own garden is noticeably crisper, juicier, and sweeter. The texture difference alone is worth the effort. Once you've had it straight from the ground, the grocery store version just doesn't quite measure up. That's true for most vegetables, honestly, but jicama in particular seems to lose something in transit. Growing your own fixes that entirely.
Gardening Insights for Growing Jicama from Seed
Let's be upfront about this — jicama is a warm-weather, long-season crop. It's native to Mexico and Central America, so it's used to heat, sun, and a long frost-free growing period. That doesn't mean you can't grow it outside the tropics, but it does mean you need to plan a little bit. Here's what you need to know.
Season length: This is the big one. Jicama needs approximately 5 to 9 months of frost-free growing time to produce a decent-sized tuber. If you're in zones 9 through 11 — southern Texas, Florida, parts of southern California, Hawaii — you've got it made. Just direct sow after your last frost and let the season do its thing. If you're further north, you'll want to start seeds indoors about 8 to 10 weeks before your last frost date to give the plant a head start. Even then, your tubers might be on the smaller side compared to what someone in south Florida pulls out of the ground, but they'll still be tasty and absolutely worth growing. Some northern growers also use black plastic mulch to warm the soil, which helps extend the effective growing season a bit.
Starting seeds: Jicama seeds have a pretty tough seed coat, so soaking them in warm water for 24 hours before planting is a smart move. Some growers even nick the seed coat with a nail file or knife to help water penetrate — a process called scarification. It's not strictly required, but it can speed up germination noticeably. Plant seeds about an inch deep in warm, moist seed-starting mix. Keep soil temperature around 75–85°F for best results. A heat mat under your seed tray works wonders if you're starting indoors during late winter when things are still chilly. Seeds typically sprout within 10 to 21 days, though some can be slow starters.
Sunlight: Full sun, full stop. Jicama wants as much direct sunlight as you can give it — at least 6 to 8 hours daily. This is a tropical plant that evolved under intense sun, so don't try to tuck it into a shady corner. The more sun it gets, the more energy the plant can pump into that underground tuber. If you're in a cooler climate, choose the warmest, sunniest spot in your yard. South-facing walls that radiate heat are your friend.
Soil: Loose, well-draining, sandy loam is ideal. Think about what the tuber needs to do — it's got to swell and expand underground. If it's fighting against compacted clay, you're going to get small, oddly shaped roots. Amend heavy soil with plenty of compost and sand to lighten it up. Raised beds with loose, fluffy soil mix are honestly one of the best setups for jicama. pH-wise, slightly acidic to neutral (6.0 to 7.0) is the sweet spot. Don't go crazy with nitrogen-heavy fertilizers either — too much nitrogen will give you gorgeous leafy vines but a disappointing little root. You want the plant's energy going downward, not upward.
Trellising: Since jicama is a vigorous climbing vine, you'll want to give it something to climb. A sturdy trellis, a fence, or even strong garden netting works well. The vine can get heavy, so whatever you use needs to handle some weight. Supporting the vine keeps foliage off the ground, improves air circulation, reduces disease risk, and makes it way easier to manage. Some growers let it sprawl along the ground like a pumpkin vine, and that works too — it just takes up more space and can get a little tangled.
Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist during the growing season, especially while the tuber is developing. Jicama is fairly drought-tolerant once established, but consistent watering produces better, juicier roots. Back off on watering as you approach harvest time — drier conditions toward the end help the tuber firm up and develop better flavor. Don't drown it though. Soggy, waterlogged soil can cause rot. Moist, not mud. You know the drill by now.
Harvest: Here's the fun part. You can start harvesting jicama when the tuber is at least 3 to 4 inches in diameter, but bigger is generally better flavor-wise. In long-season areas, some people let them go until the tubers are huge — like 5 or 6 pounds. In shorter-season climates, harvest before the first frost no matter what size you've got. Dig carefully around the base of the plant and lift the tuber out. It's kind of like digging potatoes but more exciting because you never quite know how big it got down there. That moment of pulling a fat, beautiful jicama root out of the soil? Pretty dang rewarding, not gonna lie.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I grow jicama in a container or pot?
You can, but you're gonna need a big one. We're talking at least a 15 to 20 gallon container — something deep enough for the tuber to develop without hitting the bottom. A half whiskey barrel or a large fabric grow bag works great. Fill it with loose, well-draining potting mix and give the vine a trellis to climb up. The upside of container growing is that you can position the pot in the warmest, sunniest spot you've got, and if you're in a cooler climate, you might even be able to extend the season by moving it to a protected area when temps start dropping in fall. Just be aware that container-grown jicama will probably produce smaller tubers than in-ground plants, simply because there's less room to work with. Still totally worth doing though, especially if you're in a northern zone and in-ground growing is iffy.
When is the best time to plant jicama seeds?
Timing depends on where you live. In warm climates (zones 9–11), you can direct sow outdoors after your last frost date, typically March or April. In cooler zones, start seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before your anticipated last frost — so that's usually late January to early March for most northern growers. The goal is to have healthy transplants ready to go into the ground (or a container) as soon as nighttime temps are consistently above 55°F. Jicama does not handle cold well at all. Even a light frost will knock it down. So don't jump the gun on transplanting — wait until it's genuinely warm. Better to plant a week late than lose your seedlings to a surprise cold snap.
How do you eat jicama and what does it taste like?
Jicama is most commonly eaten raw — and honestly, that's where it really shines. Peel off that papery brown skin, slice or julienne the white flesh, and you've got this amazingly crisp, juicy, mildly sweet bite that's somewhere between an apple and a raw potato, but way better than that description makes it sound. The classic Mexican street snack is jicama sticks sprinkled with lime juice, chili powder, and a pinch of salt — and if you haven't tried that combo, please do yourself a favor. It's also fantastic in slaws, salads, spring rolls, and ceviche. The crunch holds up surprisingly well even when dressed, which is why it's so popular in fresh applications. You can cook it too — stir-fries, soups, stews — where it takes on a texture similar to water chestnuts. But raw is really where jicama lives its best life. Cool, crispy, and refreshing, especially on a hot summer day.
Can I grow jicama in northern climates or shorter growing seasons?
Yes — but you gotta be strategic about it. Jicama ideally wants 5 to 9 months of warm, frost-free growing, which is more than most northern zones naturally offer. The workaround is starting seeds indoors early (late January or February), using a heat mat to keep soil warm, and transplanting into the sunniest possible outdoor spot once things warm up. Black plastic mulch over the soil helps retain heat and can make a meaningful difference. Some growers in zones 6 and 7 report getting decent-sized tubers by doing all of the above and harvesting just before the first fall frost. Your tubers probably won't be as massive as someone in Florida or Texas gets, but you'll still end up with something tasty and rewarding. Worst case scenario, you get a smaller jicama that's still crunchier and fresher than anything at the store. That's still a win in our book.
How long does it take for jicama seeds to sprout?
Most jicama seeds germinate within 10 to 21 days, assuming you've got the conditions right — warm soil (75–85°F is ideal), consistent moisture, and decent seed-to-soil contact. Soaking seeds for 24 hours before planting and lightly scarifying the seed coat with a file can speed things up noticeably, since the outer shell is pretty tough. If you're past the three-week mark and nothing's happening, make sure your soil temperature is actually warm enough. That's the number one reason for slow or failed germination with jicama. A cheap soil thermometer takes all the guesswork out of it. And don't overwater while waiting — keep the soil moist but not saturated. Soggy seeds tend to rot before they get a chance to sprout. Once they do pop up though, the vine takes off pretty quick. Jicama seedlings aren't shy once they get going.
